beeblog

I’m feeding many gallons each day as my colonies begin to build up.  But I’m wondering whether there are other recipes for sugar syrup.  I mix a 5-lb. bag of sugar with enough hot water - about 2.5 quarts - to fill a gallon jug.  Does anyone else have a different recipe?  A better recipe?

EDITOR’S NOTE: It’s time for spring packages, so I’m reposting a popular item from last year. Good luck!

Readers have asked for instructions for installing their new packages of bees. So here goes…it’s going to be a long post, but worth it, I hope!

Installing packages is one of the easier beekeeping tasks. In my opinion, there are only a few essentials. First, get good packages. Second, give the bees as good a start as you possibly can. Finally, kill as few of them as possible when installing the packages. If you can do this, you’ll be off to a good start!

The best packages are ones that are delivered directly from the source. If possible, purchase your bees from someone who drives down south to pick up the packages and then returns with them as quickly as possible. Packages that are delivered quickly suffer little, if any, losses, while packages delivered through the mail system can have losses as high as twenty-five percent.

When you have your packages, make sure that the hives you will be putting them into are clean. Remove all blackened comb and dead bees if you are using an old hive. Scrape the bottom board. If possible, use a frame or two of honey and pollen from an existing hive to help the package get a good start. Start the package in a single deep and be sure to reduce the entrance until the package is established if there are existing hives in the area. If you do not do this robbing will be a problem. Fill an entrance feeder before you get started and keep feeding them as much as they will eat until the spring nectar flow begins.

If you have more than one package, separate them by prying off the connecting pieces of wood with your hive tool.

Place each package next to the hive in which it will be installed. Make sure the hive is completely ready, but remove the two center frames. Move the remaining frames outward as far as possible to give yourself plenty of space in which to work.

Using your hive tool (is there anything that tool can’t do?), pry off the small sheet of plywood that covers the top of the package. Keep it handy, since you will need it. At this point, the bees still cannot leave the cage. Beneath the cover is a can filled with syrup as well as a small metal disc that is connected to the queen cage. Gently lift the metal disc and remove the queen cage. As soon as it is out, the bees will be able to leave the package. To prevent this, place the plywood cover over the opening while you are working with the queen cage. Pry off the metal disc and discard.

Check the queen cage. Make sure the queen is alive. If she is dead, install your package without her and then contact your supplier as soon as possible to get a replacement. They should be able to ship you a new queen quickly. (I have never had a dead queen, but it never hurts to check.) The queen cage has two small holes on either end. One hole is plugged by white candy, which can be seen in the photos above. The other end is plugged by a piece of cork. Some suppliers place a piece of cork in the side that has the candy. If this is the case, remove the cork so the bees can begin eating the candy, thus allowing the queen to leave her cage. Do not remove the cork on the other side.

Next, take a good frame that has been drawn out. Gently push the queen cage into the frame so that the candy side will be on top when the frame is placed in the hive. This prevents the opening from becoming blocked if any of the queen’s attendants die before the candy has been eaten away. This way, if they do die, they fall to the bottom of the queen cage and the queen can still exit through the hole, which is pointing upward. Make sure that the cage will not be directly beneath the hole in the inner cover.

Replace the frames. Do not leave too large a space between them. If you do, the bees will build comb that you will just have to remove later.

Replace the inner cover.

The next step is probably the hardest of all, since it has to happen fairly quickly in order to kill as few bees as possible. You will be finished in about ten seconds if it is done well. First, pick up the package and GENTLY tap it on the ground. This will cause the bees to fall off of the top of the package. The purpose of this is not to “stun” the bees, as many people suggest. Instead, all you are trying to do is to make as many of them as possible lose their grip on the package.

Next, using your finger and the hive tool, pry up the can of syrup and remove it. Now there is a large hole in the top of the package. Cover it with the small piece of plywood. If it takes too long to remove the can, you may need to tap the package on the ground one more time. Remember: GENTLY!

With the bees on the bottom of the package, remove the plywood cover and turn the package over so it is directly above the hole in the inner cover. If you do this quickly, virtually no bees will be killed. If a few are caught between the package and the inner cover, do not try to save them. You’re almost done!

The bees will immediately smell the queen inside the hive. Since they want to be near her, they will move through the hole down into the hive on their own. In just a few minutes, the package will be nearly empty. Don’t worry if there are a few stragglers. They will find their way down eventually.

By dusk, virtually all of the bees should be in the hive. There may be one or two left, but don’t worry about them. There will likely be a dozen or so dead bees also. Again, you do not have to worry about them at all.

When the bees have left the package, remove it and discard. Place the feeder can over the hole in the inner cover so the bees can finish off the syrup. Make sure that the holes in the can are pointing downward! If you have an extra empty super, place it on the inner cover and then put the outer cover over it. If you don’t have a spare and the weather is not too cold, you can leave the hive as it is until the can is empty.

In two or three days, check the hive to make sure the queen has been released. It is very uncommon to find her still in the package, but if you do, remove the cork from the other side of the queen cage and put her in the hive. When she is released, remove the queen cage and discard. You’re done!

Remember to keep the feeder jar full until the nectar flow begins and keep the opening reduced for a while to minimize robbing. In a week or so, check for eggs and larvae.

Hey, It looks like everyone here is pretty interested in getting more bees to add to their collection. I would like to help you out, while at the same time solving my situation as well.

I have a large colony of bees living in the walls of a commercial building in Huntington Beach, CA. If you can come out and remove the bees and their combs, please do so! The bees are yours!

I would just hate to pay someone to come and poison the bees when there is a shortage and all. I had an inspection last week, and these are definitely honey bees, so they’re “good” bees. But the guy said there were too many of them, so he would have to use pesticides and kill them : (

Please don’t let this happen. Let me know if you are willing and able to make the effort to remove my bees LIVE and relocate them somewhere that they can be properly taken care of : )

Thanks!!

qtchic86@yahoo.com

Another piece on hive theft, this time from National Public Radio’s Day to Day, but with a twist.  Sasha Khokha reports that a California beekeeper, Brian Beekman, found that 128 hives had been stolen - a loss of approximately $40,000.  Rather than sit by idly, Beekman tracked down the stolen hives on his own, ultimately recovering them.  The thief, another beekeeper, has been charged with the theft of the hives and is facing possible jail time.

The introduction can be found here and the report is here.

One lesson to be taken from this report is to mark all of your equipment.  Beekman printed his name and other identifying information on the outside of his hives.  Realizing that this information could easily be painted over, he also marked the inside of his hives and the top bars of his wooden frames.  It must have been a lot of work, but it ultimately paid off.

National Public Radio’s Morning Edition reports that the theft of beehives is increasing.  One California farmer had 180 hives stolen! Listen to their report here.

I suppose that this problem is to be expected in light of the problems beekeepers face right now.  Has anyone in Connecticut experienced any problems with theft?

OK, so we’re not the Great Wall of China or the Pyramids at Giza…but we’re working on it.  The image below is from the satellite view of our address in Google Maps.  About twenty-five of our hives, shown by the red arrow, are visible. The photo must have been taken while the sun was directly overhead, causing a glare off of the metal hive covers.

One of our horses, Shasta, can also be seen.  He’s standing in the middle of the field near the bottom of the picture.

We may not be the biggest apiary, but we do claim overwhelming dominance in the space race.  Strangely, this article does not mention Stonewall Apiary in its list of objects visible from space.  A glaring oversight!

Want to see for yourself?  Check it out on our Location page.  Just click on the satellite view (”sat”) and zoom in.

Hello,

If anyone is interested in Integrated Pest Management (IPM) bottom boards please contact me.

This pest management system is a combination bottom board/hive stand that incorporates galvanized screen instead of a solid bottom board. The mites fall through the screen and are unable to climb back into the hive and onto the bee’s. Studies have shown these boards to work extremely well in reducing the mite count in hives. The added ventilation is also said to aid in brood raising.

The boards are assembled, painted and are located in Connecticut. Local pickup is advised but shipping can be arranged. Boards are $20.00 each. I also make supers in all sizes. You can reach me at this email address - ptartworks@aol.com

Happy Beekeeping!

~Jim
Baby Bear’s Apiary

 EDITOR’S NOTE:

The item above is offered by a beeblog user. The user has no affiliation with the beeblog, ct-honey.com or Stonewall Apiary.  While we encourage users to use the beeblog for virtually any beekeeping-related activity, Stonewall Apiary assumes no responsibility for either side of any transaction that may result from the above ad.

I want to expand the number of hives I have by 2 or 3.  So far in my brief beekeeping life I have introduced packages (5 hives) and cannot say that I’ve encountered any difficulty in doing so.  However, I was thinking about starting the next 3 hives with nucs.  My reasoning is that the hives will be further along and they won’t have to draw out foundation from the start.  I’m curious as to what the established beekeepers out there do when increasing their bee yards.

Presumably, cost is a factor but I don’t really know how ahead of the game I would be if I picked up a 5 frame nuc for let’s say $30.00 more than a 3 lb. package.  Is that a smart thing to do or wasteful?  What should I be taking into consideration.

I was also thinking about looking for “local” bees or at least Northern bred bees.  Again, I’m thinking they would be hardier for Winter and would not be stressed from the travel often associated with Southern bees.  I’d like to hear comments on this too.

Thanks to anyone for their opinions.

Stonewall Apiary has received an Agricultural Viability Grant from the Connecticut Department of Agriculture to expand its beekeeping operation and product line.  We will be offering more comb honey, since we sell out almost immediately each year.  In addition, we will also be adding more pollen and beeswax products.

For more information on the grant, including the other grant recipients, see the announcement on the Department of Agriculture website.

Looking for a small used extractor. My daughter only has 2 hives and we need to travel to extract. Thanks, Robber